This is my last train journey on this summer’s travel tour. I am now seven hours south of Montreal and alone, save for the other passengers, crew and mother nature’s beauty which keeps me company outside my window. My phone reception has been dead for the last three hours out in rural New York State as the railway lines hug river banks, quarries and swamps, clouds reflecting in the waters below on this sunny August day.

It is hard to believe that just two days ago Hurricane Irene swept through the fields and waters we now pass, yet there is evidence of Irene’s destruction in fallen trees and the fact that I am still unsure of where my final destination will be tonight. Today I really do live by the Jon Bon Jovi song Destination Anywhere, as I am yet to know if I’ll wake up tomorrow morning in NYC or whether I’ll find myself awake and stranded somewhere up state. I am listening to the album and smiling to myself as I really have to let this situation just be today.
Amtrak have been working since yesterday to restore the railway lines damaged by Hurricane Irene and battle to remove excess water from the tracks. No train has yet made it south of Albany to New York City since Friday but we are told that there is a small chance that the tracks may be fit for travel in the next couple of hours so I continue to wonder where I’ll awake tomorrow morning (and hope it’s outside Central Park).
It’s 28 degrees outside and it is difficult to comprehend the destruction the region faced at the hands of this rare tropical storm that made its way up the North Eastern coast, yet even in Montreal on Sunday, we could feel the effects of Irene’s wrath. Huge gales and horizontal rain descended across the old and new town of Montreal on Sunday. Chairs and tables from restaurants and gardens were blown away and in Parc Mont Royale, fallen tree branches cluttered the pathways. I have not seen wind or rain like it since the 80s in England, when London was hit by its own hurricane.

We stayed in mostly on Sunday, sheltering from the storm which grew fiercer as the day went on, yet by Monday morning, much like today, darkened grey skies had given way to the gorgeous summer I have learned to appreciate in America and Canada since arriving in JFK back in early July. Sunday’s storm was only the third time I have seen rain on this whole trip, so although a hurricane is not always what you wish for, in the scheme of the rest of the summer we’ve been lucky with the weather overall.
Montreal
“Au revoir” Fi said to me this morning as we hugged goodbye in our hotel in Montreal. “I may be back in an hour” I told her, half expecting my train with Amtrak to be cancelled altogether. So many conflicting stories have emerged about my journey over the last 24 hours that I have learnt not to believe anything until it happens. As it stands at the moment, I am booked on a flight from Albany to JFK tomorrow lunchtime which I arranged late last night when Amtrak told me that under no circumstances was it likely that I would be able to get further south by train or coach than Albany today or tomorrow. Just 12 hours later, and it seems a possibility now and I’m left wondering if I’ll get my £150 back for the flight, if indeed I do end up cancelling it.
Leaving Fi today was really difficult. It had been 15 months since I had last seen her and wished her farewell in emigrating to Canada and her Canucks, yet the bitter sweet goodbye of having had a fantastic 10 days but remembering that we live on two different sides of the ocean is made easier by the fact Fi will be back in the UK at Christmas. That and I have an invite from her for a West Coast Canadian tour next year which, knowing me, I will take her up on.

Last night I also said ‘au revoir’ to Isabelle, Fi’s friend from Montreal who lived in London for a year a few years ago, before I knew Fi. Isabelle, Fi and I have, over the last few days, bonded together in a way that I’m used to bonding with friends I’ve known for years since college days. Despite the three of us living thousands of miles apart (Fi and Isabelle do not live in the same city in Canada either) we found that we have the same loves (photography, art, travel, rock music, organisational development etc) and the same woes. No matter where you are in the world, it’s so interesting to realise that the great and the not so good can be so similar in all of our lives.
From nights out in Montreal (which, it turns out, really can party) to nights in with take-away sushi, red wine, reflection and life changing heart to hearts, I think we have each reached a point this year, and perhaps even this weekend, that shows us all to be along similar pathways. I have missed these nights out and in with my best girl friends, so it was a treat to share that once again for a weekend. We laughed, we played, we ate poutine with Louis and Jean-Pierre in a park at 3am in the morning and we got excited, really excited, when Louis, who lives an hour out of Montreal, reminded us what it is like to meet a straight forward, intelligent, ambitious, humble and honest guy. And we laughed when we found out that Louis was not a road sweeper with a smart car , as he had claimed, but rather a Dr. with a Porsche.

We drank bubble tea in Chinatown and made stupid faces for the camera, popping the bubbles in our mouth and watching them slide up and down our straws. We went to a Japanese fondue restaurant and cooked our own food, sipping green tea quickly when we realised the soup was spicier than anticipated. We shared experiences, stories and remembered the importance of friendships through it all, even if those friendships are new ones.
We danced to music from the 80s and loved that everyone around us in Montreal was not too cool to join in despite the Notting Hill like vibe of surrounding streets. We watched all of the beautiful people around us, of which there are many in Montreal, and smiled when we realised how approachable, down-to-earth and happy they all were. We sang Jonas and Hinder songs in Isabelle’s lounge and laughed at the photos we had taken on Saturday night. We recalled gig memories and eventful birthdays and made promises to stay true to what we want and where we want to go and who with.
We joked about our sushi getting cold when it took an hour and a half to be delivered in the hurricane and stopped to admonish ourselves for contemplating going to La Ronde, a theme park along Montreal’s river, in the midst of Irene’s anger. We read lyrics to songs that Fi and Isabelle had made up earlier in the year and started to write our own new words, torturing Johnny Cash in his grave with the assault we made to the lyrics of Ring of Fire which re-emerged as a Bubble Tea song.

In the old town of Montreal, we walked around with feet sore from our flip flops, making Kath and Kim impressions, in a way reminiscent of the adventure across Europe that Cha, Stacey and I took last year. We told random strangers we were Australian, living in Sydney and touring Canada, as we got so sick of every Canadian we met thinking we were from Oz. We remembered that when you travel, you can be who you want to be and most importantly, we just had a whole load of fun amidst our soul searching.
We joked about ‘pou-tine’ on weight from the chips, gravy and cheese curds of Quebéc and hunted for beaver tails whilst still full from breakfast and lunch. We climbed stairs and walked up the hills of Park Mont Royale to sneak an awe inspiring view of Montreal and pointed out La Ronde in the distance, slightly saddened that we had not been able to get there on this visit but smiling safely in the knowledge that we’ll be back to Montreal someday soon.
We managed to avoid spending any more money on jewellery, having exhausted our annual silver allowance in Quebéc City, but wandered boutique shops and gifts stores anyway, to triple check for unique pieces we could justify making an exception for. Across the cobbled streets of the old town and along the walkways of the port, we spotted tasteful graffiti and murals providing a backdrop to street vendors selling paintings to tourists and offering to wrap them up securely to survive transatlantic travel. I remembered painting a mural at age 16 for my high school, to mark the then forthcoming millennium.

I sampled the sushi shop, Canada’s (better) version of Yo Sushi, dining on edamame beans, a salmon and crab roll and sipping on miso soup as we watched a brave few bear the brunt of the storm on Sunday along St Catherine’s Street, Montreal’s answer to Oxford Street. Afterwards, we took refuge in an underground mall which usually is as its busiest in Canada’s harsh winters as shoppers seek to avoid the icy pavements and treacherous roads, but which lit up with people in the midst of a tropical storm.
Montreal exudes style, glamour and diversity. It is one of the friendliest big cities I have ever been to and its inhabitants think nothing of starting conversations with complete strangers. It is the perfect city to be alone in as you cannot possibly stay alone for long; there is always someone ready to make friends with you and show you a good time. London can, and should, learn from this.
Hundreds of great restaurants line both main and back streets with BYO (bring your own alcohol) offers in most. Waiters immediately offer to cork bottles for you that you haven’t purchased on their premises and helpfully dig out wine and pint glasses when they spot your carrier bag of beverages.
People do not take themselves too seriously and are out for a good time. Fashions are eclectic and St Denis Street is reminiscent of Portobello Road with its unique boutiques at reasonable prices. Art and the city’s love of it is prevalent on every corner as artists sit with their easels and oil paints alongside inviting shops with white panelled walls to showcase the best of local painting and photographic talents. It left me yearning to pick up my paintbrush again. The French, English and Canadian influences of this city are inspiring to all creatives and those that admire them.

I heart Montreal.
She got out of town, on a railway New York bound…
We are now arriving in Albany, New York state. About half an hour ago our train driver announced that the railway lines are cleared and we will now be heading straight to Penn Station, NY. The carriages erupted in cheers and claps as commuters concerned for flights, holidays and family pick ups realised that our original schedule is being adhered to. After 9 hours of uncertainty on the train ride, we can all now enjoy the views that are unfolding and I am looking forward to riding along the Hudson river into the city that this trip began in some 7 weeks ago.
I have successfully managed to cancel, without charge, my hotel in Albany for the evening and luckily, did not cancel my NYC hotel for tonight. I have a flight booked still for tomorrow morning that I will now not take, but lastminute.com have gone home for the day in the UK so I will have to hope that I can talk to someone reasonable tomorrow and try to claw back the £150 I spent booking a flight that Amtrak told me last night would be my only way to get to NYC this week.
The announcement that we are heading to Penn Station is dampened slightly by the fact we still have another 3 hours to go on this train and the caterers got off 3 hours ago as staff from NYC could not take part in the shifts this week, rendering Amtrak short staffed and having to split catering crew across trains both north and southbound. At 1pm we were advised to stock up on food and drink before services shut at 2pm, despite our train not pulling into Penn Station until around 9pm tonight.

I’m not hungry, but I could murder a coffee. I had just 3 hours sleep last night trying to re-route myself on a very slow internet connection to get into NYC to meet Claire tomorrow and help her celebrate her birthday week. I decide to venture along the carriages and find our train conductors who have received it in the neck from every passenger all day and I say hello and thank them for their help. They have done everything they could do today to share what little information they have had and I have felt sorry for them at times when other travellers erupted. “There was nothing on the website” one passenger claims, and I quietly afterwards tell him, in earshot of the conductor, that there was and I read it last night on the website last night, hence why I had booked my Albany flight.
The train conductors seem to recall my brief moment of sticking up for them and I ask nicely if there is anywhere I can get a coffee on the train. They run around to the closed up food cart and pour me a coffee, telling me not to let others know and refusing to charge me for it as its nice for them to have one passenger on this train that isn’t about to give them a mouthful of abuse. I am so grateful for the coffee and the second wind it gives me to carry on blogging and they are grateful, genuinely I think, for my thanks.
“You’ll be getting home some time today but I don’t know when” our conductor announces as we stop in Albany Station. “We’ll get you home and get you where you wanna be it’s just going to take some time today. Thanks for your understanding.”
So after much messing around, at some point tonight I will be in NYC. I suddenly find myself with that same buzz of excitement that I always get when I go back to NYC. It’s strange, because having been travelling for so long you start to take a new city and adventure in your stride but there are some places that I have felt that typical holiday buzz from. Arriving in Canada certainly brought the buzz, for it was my first trip there, but as always Manhattan is giving me that city buzz. It feels like my home.
Tomorrow I will meet up with Claire who booked 6 days in NYC a year ago to look forward to celebrating her birthday in the city she has always dreamed of visiting. I am super excited to be her tour guide for the next few days and also excited to be seeing Stefani again. I always promised Claire I would try to make the trip to NYC so that she had someone to share her first visit with and when I decided in January to travel for the summer, it made complete sense to finish off back in NYC and meet up with Claire.
Claire will arrive at lunchtime tomorrow. I thought for a while today that she might well be there on her own given the railway problems but alas, I’m back on schedule and planning to spend my morning in Central Park painting before Claire swings by our hotel at 58th and 5th shortly after 2pm EST and then the tour guide activity will begin!
To mark my return to the city, I am listening to the live recording of the Matchbox Twenty show I went to at Madison Square Gardens on Valentine’s Day in 2008. Arriving into Penn Station today, I will no doubt look up at the lights of Madison Square Gardens and recall both the Matchbox Twenty show and also, the Bon Jovi show that I saw there in March this year. Live music in this great city never ceases to create memories that last a lifetime.
Toronto
When I landed in Toronto 10 days ago following a four hour flight from Phoenix, Arizona, I met up with Fi in our hotel room on King Street and we quickly freshened up from our respective journeys (she had travelled up from Ottawa) and headed out to Queens Street. After a short walk from our hotel, past the CN Tower which lit up in red, blue and green lights at night, we found Sari, a fellow gig fan who lives just outside of Toronto.

Sari, Fi and I spent the first part of our evening eating Sushi and catching up. Inspirationally, Sari gave up her day job a couple of years ago to follow her dream of being part of the production team for concerts. Her dream has become a reality, and she is regularly requested to lead production for some of the greatest bands to hit concert venues in and around Toronto, including greats like U2.
Of course, in keeping with the rock chit chat, we headed to a gig venue on Queen Street which promised an alternative rock evening in return for $10 of our cash. A stamp to the back of our hand later and we were inside, drinking Budweiser Light and watching the live music unfold. “I need to do more of this” I told Fi and Sari “I don’t go to enough small gigs anymore. It’s always the larger gigs, but I miss the small ones.” We all concurred, that we had, over the last couple of years, found ourselves at more larger shows for established bands and had lost sight of the fun that can be had from discovering an unknown artist and following their journey.
Fi and I thought back to small gigs we had been to together over the last few years, including Ross Copperman and Van Tramp. We recalled our favourite London gig venues, from Purple Turtle to the Cobden Club, to the Borderline, Troubadour and Waterats. We have been privileged to see some great acts at those venues and more over the years.

As the evening began to draw to a close in our first gig venue in Toronto, we wandered outside back onto Queen Street and into another rock bar a 10 minute walk away. The live bands for the evening had finished at around 1am but we were able to close out our evening with drinks until gone 3am in a bar that reminded me very much of Piranhas, the rock bar Hesn and I had ventured into in Nashville. Similar slogans adorned the walls however there was no blonde barmaid this time, just a blonde guy who took a liking to us and insisted on kissing us on the cheek goodbye at the end of the evening. He thought we were Australian.
On our walk home, along Queen Street we bumped into some locals guys from Toronto who, again, thought we were Australian. After chatting for a little bit, a guy from Kuala Lumpur joined us and he was soon being encouraged by our new friends to say to every passer by “Go Leafs Go”, much to the amusement of all of Toronto. “I came to this city to party” KL guy started to tell us. “I have been walking along this street looking for the after party and here it is”. He was of course referring to the four of us chatting on the pavement and invited all of us back to his hostel for more drinks but at some point in the conversation, Fi and I realised that it was approaching 5am and whilst I was still on West Coast time, we needed to get back to our hotel and rest up before Niagara Falls the next day.

On our wander back, we found the Canadian Walk of Fame and stopped to have our picture taken with the Bryan Adams plaque on the pavement. Sari had already told us that the hotel we were staying in was the same one that Bryan Adams usually stays in when he’s in Toronto, so it seemed fitting to honour his plaque on our slightly tipsy walk back to the hotel.
When Sunday morning came around, Fi whisked me off to the Dakota Tavern, a fabulous live music venue near China Town, providing traditional Canadian brunch on a Sunday morning. Pancakes, maple syrup, potatoes, eggs, sausages, fruit, juice and coffee were the order of the day. We perched at the bar with a perfect view of the live band performing folk songs in front of us. Thankfully, we didn’t feel too bad post drinks the night before and were able to enjoy the music, food and ambience. Our waitress gave us a tip on where to eat at Niagara Falls that evening and we mulled away a couple of hours in the tavern, enjoying lazy Sunday morning post hectic Saturday night and having a proper catch up on the last 15 months of our lives.

We walked back through China Town, stopping at Kensington Market to look at the local thoroughfare. Fi picked up some pink sunglasses and did her best to find a Canucks hockey patch but left unsuccessful. Walking around Toronto, I discovered, was one of the best ways to see the town. Like New York, Toronto’s character is built largely from the people that wander around in it and again, like Montreal, it exudes a love of art and theatre dominates the city, although on a smaller scale than Broadway.
By 2pm we were picked up for our afternoon to evening tour of Niagara Falls. There were just seven of us on the trip which would see us get to experience the falls in both daylight and at night, when fireworks erupt. The weather was changeable and throughout the day we swung from periods of bright sunshine to heavy downpours of rain, but all the time it was warm. At least we expected to get wet, we thought as we made our journey to Niagara.
For as long as I can remember, I have wanted to visit Niagara Falls. I think that perhaps it might have been the first place, aside from Disneyland as a child, that I ever wanted to go. My dad would work abroad fairly often when I was growing up, sometimes in the Middle East but I remember clearly a number of trips that he made to Toronto for exhibitions. As part of those trips, he got to go to Niagara Falls although his trip was in the winter, so all he could do was the journey behind the falls as the maid of the mist tour only runs in the summer.

I remember looking at his photos, which I think perhaps were polaroids, and wanting so badly to experience its majestic magnificence. It was at Niagara Falls that my dad first bought my sister and I some dolls back in traditional Canadian dress, and so our doll collection of all of the places my dad got to visit overseas began. Those dolls have been put away for years now and I had forgotten about them until my dad mentioned them to me on skype recently, when I was telling him about the falls.
Niagara Falls is even more fierce than I ever imagined. By the time we got there, we had stopped at a winery (trying some ice wine and purchasing some maple syrup) and also, in the town of Niagara where the heavens opened and I got to use my rain coat for the second time since New Orleans. An ice-cream later and we were back on the bus, stopping at a couple of viewpoints in the rain, snapping photos quickly before boarding the bus again.
When it was time to get the Maid of the Mist tour, the rain stopped and the sun began to make a re-appearance. On the boat, dressed in blue rain coats supplied by the tour, Fi and I felt like a pair of smurfs, especially when the wind blew inside our coats and created a smurf like cone style hood atop both of our heads. Despite our less than glamorous appearances on board the Maid of the Mist boat, we snapped away as many photos as we could.
I daren’t risk my SLR camera on this ride so made do with my point and shoot Panasonic which served me well on the tour. I managed to tuck it away under the rain coat just when it was about to get drenched (clearly, I learnt something from the soak zone at SeaWorld). By the time we were at the first set of falls (Horseshoe Falls), a full rainbow came out right over the entire falls. It was stunning and I suddenly felt so very grateful for the rain earlier.

A rocky boat ride later, which Fi commented was the rockiest she has ever felt on board the Maid of the Mist, and we were back on dry land looking anything but dry ourselves but the whole experience had been exhilarating. Niagara Falls really was right up there with my Grand Canyon experience, despite not being able to take a helicopter ride this time due to the weather.
We were dropped at one end of the falls shortly afterwards and made our way along the path that runs parallel to the banks of the river and falls. We stopped often, looking on in awe at mother nature at its very best. The sound of the falls hitting the river banks below was deafening at times and the mist that dispersed around it resembled a cloud. Had we not known what it was, I would have almost been convinced that something had gone up in a puff of smoke far below. The mist instead rose from river bed to sky, hundreds of feet up and bringing with it a vapour of water that made it feel like it was raining once again.
Gallant seagulls sat perched on the walls surrounding the falls, posing perfectly in front of the wonder behind them. Tourists flocked to snap pictures of the seagulls who looked like they spent their days enjoying the paparazzi style attention and soaking in the view. This was the Sunset Boulevard of Seagull land, where they couldn’t fly or walk a foot or two without being snapped! I have to admit, I took pictures of them too. It was just too inviting to set up a nice wide aperture shot.

It took a good hour or so, with stops, to walk the entire length of both sets of falls. We were starving when we had finished and no wonder as it was approaching 8pm. We hurriedly made our way up Fall Avenue, past the many amusement arcades, wax museums, carousels and haunted houses, to the restaurants at the top of the hill, seeking out the steak and chargrilled prawn restaurant that the lady from Dakota Tavern had recommended. We settled there for an hour and a half, sharing a bottle of red wine and chatting excitedly about the amazing day we had been having and which still wasn’t over.
And it was an amazing day, one of the best. It was right up there with the day I spent on Fraser Island in Australia, with the day Stacey and I donned our cowboy hats in a pink jeep and discovered the Grand Canyon. It was right up there with my trip to Sedona, which I am yet to blog about, but with its mystical world of vortexes, legends and natural beauty. It was right up there with the time I spent in Tokyo. Right up there with so many of my NYC trips. Right up there with the memories I will take back with me from my time at Franz Josef in New Zealand. It was everything I wanted it to be and so much more and I got to share it with Fi, who on this journey evolved from a gig buddy to being a very, very good friend.

As if the day couldn’t get any better, we left the restaurant and made our way to the riverbank once again. Perching next to a stone pillar which was to become our tripod (my photography tutor would flinch at that), I set up my SLR to be shutter speed led with a high ISO and waited to capture fireworks and coloured lights bringing Niagara Falls to life once again. Against the pitch black sky, an array of colours began shining from the water, fluorescent blues, pinks, oranges, yellows and a white that glittered, thousands of people watched.
Our mesmerisation continued though when the fireworks show began. For 10 minutes, we were treated to one of the most spectacular fireworks displays I have ever seen. This was how I imagined Sydney’s New Year’s Eve display to be, not grand for the fireworks themselves but for the setting in all its pure beauty. I remembered once again how Tom, my art tutor, commented that there is beauty in the turn of a head or a moment of light and here I was, turning my head and watching thousands of moments of light transcend into something purely spectacular. I was in awe and remain in awe even now as I think back to that moment. I will treasure that moment forever.
Journeying on
It has just gone 9pm and I have been on this train for 12 hours. We don’t know when we will arrive in NYC, but hopefully before midnight. Still we travel slowly due to the railroads that remain partially flooded post Irene’s wrath. I am laughing to myself for wanting to take this rail journey, having read on the website of the man in seat 61 that it is one of the prettiest there is, especially as you approach NYC. Regrettably, we are now running so late that the views from my window are only of darkness, but at least I tried it.

I find myself excited about going home in a week. I am certainly not wanting my trip to end, as I have enjoyed every moment, but there is something comforting about knowing that in a week’s time I will be landing at Heathrow Airport and seeing the faces and places that I love once again, in my own home town.
I hope that it is not too early to say this, but I will risk it anyway. When I took my first sabbatical in early 2009, I was looking for something. I was seeking out something that would make me feel happy inside and out in all that I did. I think I expected to come back home and find everything fixed, everything right, everything perfect. Things were not that wrong, in fact, in so many ways they were so very right, but something was amiss and I went out to the Pacific Ocean to find it.
I don’t think I found it though. What I did find on that first sabbatical though was that I had a thirst and love of travel that was difficult to quench. I also found a wonderful friendship in Cha who, in all fairness, I hadn’t known very well prior to embarking on that three month trip but in a way, that made it work so very well as we got to know each other as we attempted to get to know ourselves on that enriching journey.
I didn’t come back finding what was amiss but I did come back enriched. I think we all do after every journey, providing we have our eyes open to it and so long as we’re willing to listen to ourselves in the lessons we can take from living our lives.

Yet today, I feel different. This time, I have not found what was amiss but instead, I’ve realised that I made that journey of discovery before I even set foot at Heathrow Airport. This travel adventure, instead, cements what I had already learnt back in London. Those things that I found amiss in myself were things that I realised when I was still at home, in my routine and my own environment. They were always to be realised at home, which is why I never found them on that first trip. It’s why I am also excited about going home, as there is so much more to discover now that I understand what it was all along that I went searching for on my travels.
It’s been truly great to spend time with Fi and Isabelle these last few days also. Their journeys are so similar, even if our lives are in different continents. I think we have helped each other this week to realise what is next for us as we embrace changes we are making in ourselves to continue to be as fulfilled as each of us are when we experience the joy of moments like Niagara Falls.